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The Golden Oil

In the bottle, fresh olive oil - by which i mean truly fresh, straight-from-the-organic-mill olive oil, looks if anything a little like fetid swamp water: green and uninspiring. Pour it onto a plate of bread and it is immediately transformed, a bright shining gold.

I have just spent a few days in Paciano, Italy, where just about every family has its own olive trees and makes its own oil. I'll be returning next month for a longer spell, to research an article for The Washington Post Magazine.
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